Diamond dust bits from harbor freight (their only good tool) is also useful for connecting the dots. On big holes I've taken to drilling a lot of little holes in sheet metal and connecting the dots with a carbide tree bit (3/8") in an air die grinder. Type F ATF is $1.50 a quart at the discount store, I lubricate most anything with it anyway except engines.ĭrills over 1/2" in sheetmetal are likely to snag and snap off, and are expensive. Air compressor oil or tractor hydraulic fluid (generic) or type F Auto Trans Fluid are non-detergeant oils. Oil your vise first with non-detergeant oil to prevent rust, you should do that anyway. The oil is important to pros to keep the expensive shop machinery from rusting from the water, but if you're drilling 1 or 2 holes you are unlikely to apply enough water to seriously damage your vise. I spit on the bit to keep it cool, makes much less of a mess in my garage and costs nothing. Drilling left handed allows the drill motor to snap out of your hand if it snags, which helps preserve your wrist against sprains.ĭrilling fluid makes a big mess, the cooling is more important than the oil. I use a vari-speed hand drill, as unless you center the work exactly and bolt the vise down on a drill press, I find the vise spinning around at the bottom of the hole too exciting for words. Long twisted curls are too slow or too light, and can cut your hand besides. Wear safety glasses!.Ī machinist told me once you have the speed and pressure right when little curls of chips are breaking off. I have taken to buying Irwin cobalt plated drills from the hardware store, not because I drill stainless (it is designed for that) but that the metalurgy is okay and it doesn't shatter so badly, and the price is less than the pro drills plus freight from Mcmaster. These behave more like the ClevelandTwist and VermontAmerican US made drills of the past. I use as reference the drills fished out of the dumpster from work and resharpened, from Lawson and Fastenal. The hardware store ones, specifically Irwin HS drills made in Brazil, have enough metal but are also prone to shatter. The discount store ones seem to have a thinner web, and are more likely to shatter as a result. For one thing, the drills available to you at the discount store and the hardware store have drifted away in shape and metallurgy from the ones available to corporations that buy from mill supplies. I agree with MTW above but use the following shortcuts as an amateur with a hand drill. The first part i made off the machine, programmed right to size, cut right to within. you will not be disappointed in the support you recieve, or the community around this machine. putting nearly 1000 hours on it in just the short while ive owned it. Speaaking of support they are UNBELIEVABLE not once have i had a question go unanswered Between Roelof and Josh there is no part they cant fix or problem they cant solve, i have yet to have my machine be down for a full day and i run it for atleast 3 hours every single day, most of the time 5-6. The first thing i noticed when i opened the machine was everything, down to the last screw is carefully thought out and buttoned up with precision, nothing looks mismatched and the body of the machine flows together beautifully with no seams abnormally large or pieces pressed together too tight and ran perfect right out of the box, with a little help from support to get me connected. The vaccume is an excellent addition and makes cleanup a breeze, and if you dont have quite enough suction to get big chips theres a port on the back tat makes light work with a traditional shop vac. The Spindle leaves just a tiny bit to be desired, but paired with the right speeds and feeds will remove material all the way up to its max feed of 4000mm/min which is crazy! The Z probe is fantastic, for leveling or just using the laser on it to quick pickup parts, makes changing from job to job a breeze. The tool changer makes running longer parts effortless, no more hand changing tools which is a game changer ill never go back. Ive been a Machinist for the last decade and a half or so, and an engineer for a few years running every machine from small chucker lathes, to million dollar 5 axis machines with pallet changers this machine is the Truth it is top notch in its field. IOS, Andriod, Mac OS, Windows, Linux, etc.įusion360, SolidWorks, AutoCad, VCarve Pro, Aspire, Illustrator, etc. Wood, plastic, fabric, leather, cardboard, etc.ĭedicated software supports CARVERA functions Hardwoods, softwoods, MDF, plywoods, etc. Servo motors for X/Y/Z axis, Nema17 stepper motor for A axis 36cm(X) * 24cm(Y) * 14cm(Z) / 14.2in * 9.4in * 5.5inĩ.2cm(Diameter) * 24cm(Length) / 3.6in * 9.4inĥ8cm(Width) * 52cm(Depth) * 54cm(Height) /Ĭustom collet with ⅛in integrated (optional: ¼in, 6mm, 4mm)Īir-cooled controlled by temperature monitor
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